My wife wanted to visit all of the places I have worked in around the world and Bermuda was next on our schedule.  Bermuda is not a cheap place to get to or stay in when coming from the UK, but I was so glad we did.  When visiting a place with cherished memories I worried that it would no longer be as breathtaking as it was, after all I worked there a long time ago. Thankfully I was mistaken, as this jewel of an island that sits in the Sargasso Sea is as beautiful as ever. In late May and early June the island is awash with colour from all the flowers and wildlife. 

Grotto Bay Beach Hotel

I arrived on the island in 1981 and worked at the Grotto Bay Beach hotel. It was a new adventure and my time spent in Bermuda was filled with treasured memories. I was only on the island a couple of years because it was always my intention that once I had my green card that I would move to the US.  In 2025, we took at look around the hotel grounds, their private beach, the jetty and of course the grotto’s from which the resort get’s it’s name and makes the hotel a memorable place. Grotto Bay is still a great location to explore the island from.

St.George

The Town of St George’s is located at the northern tip of the island and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Full of brightly painted buildings, some dating back to 1620. The town of St George was settled in 1612 and was the first permanent British settlement on the island and was the oldest continuously inhabited English settlement in the New World. 

As Bermuda’s population centre, and only true port during this period, St. George’s was connected to development in the North American colonies. During the American War of Independence, at the request of George Washington, Bermudians assisted the American rebels in stealing much-needed gunpowder from a St. George’s magazine, which supplied the forts protecting the port. The powder was carried over the hill to Tobacco Bay, from where boats transported it to an American ship that lay offshore. 

Amongst the 17th and 18th century buildings in St George is St. Peter’s Church, which is the the oldest Anglican church in the New World and dates back to 1620. 

Another building worth visiting is Fort St . Catherine, the largest fort on the island.  Situated between St. Catherine’s Beach and Achilles Bay, towering above pink-sand beaches and offering sweeping ocean views nearly everywhere you look.  The fort was constructed in 1614 and has undergone numerous upgrades in the 19th century.

Lili Bermuda Perfumery

One of the places my wife (Sophie) wanted to visit was the perfume shop in St Georges, Lili Bermuda Perfumery. A must visit for anyone interested in perfume. We took a number of photos and were shown around the shop, the Studio Workshop, the garden and the storage / manufacturing workshop. This unique Prefumery, was established in 1928 and is located in the beautiful Stewart Hall, a historic 18th century property.

During our visit we met Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone, owner and Perfumer. It was clear from talking to her that she is very passionate about the island which is the source of inspiration for her fragrances all of which have a story. For example, Sophie chose to purchase a bottle of Island Rose which is an artistic reflection of the Hamilton Princess & Beach Club Rose, which blooms in Bermuda on the grounds of the iconic pink palace.

One particularly interesting story is that of the Mary Celestia Perfume –  an 1864 Civil War blockade runner which was sailing to Charleston, South Carolina and sank off the south shore of Bermuda. In 2011 an international team of Marine Archeologists discovered two intact bottles of perfume embossed Piesse and Lubin London, hidden away in the bow of the 150-year old shipwreck. Lili Beruda Perfumery analysed and re-created the perfume, and of course named it Mary Celestia.

If you would like to go on your own tour these are complimentary and held daily (except Sundays and public holidays) at 11am and 3pm. They also host afternoon teas in their stunning garden and host workshops in which you can create your own signature scent.

Frequency Cafe

After our visit to the perfume shop we stopped for lunch at Frequency Cafe which is located at 22 Water Street. The Cafe offers a menu with both sweet and savoury from charcuterie boards, made to order sandwiches, cookies, pastries, teas, coffees and homemade soups with a focus on using local ingredients. The cafe also offers vegan options, including panini with eggplant and hummus.

I had a delicious turkey wrap and Sophie had an equally delicious turkey pannini. Even though we both had turkey they had lots of options of other sandwich fillings and I would definitely go back. The cafe has a very pleasant outdoor seating area to enjoy the sunshine while you relax and refresh

 Mitchell House Museum (St George’s Historical Society)

Another must see in the town of St George is the Mitchell House Museum run by the  Historical Society. The house was built in 1730 by the wealthy St. George’s merchant, Major Walter Mitchell, for his nephew William. Its original architecture has largely been maintained over the centuries.

There have been many different residents and owners of this property but the most notable  amongst these owners were a successful black couple, the Archers, in the 19th century. The couple ran a restaurant in the town of St. George’s called The Gun Tavern, which was very  popular with sailors and soldiers. 

In 1922 the St.George’s Historical Society acquired the house and it now stands as a museum. In the house you will find a pristinely preserved colonial-era kitchen with various cooking implements that would have been commonly found in an 18th century home.  It also houses a printing press in the cellar which is a replica of the Gutenberg press, which was invented by Johannes Gutenberg in 1445.   What made our visit to the museum so special was the knowledge and passion shared by the curator during our visit. The artefacts also tell a tale of momentous historical events in including America’s War of Independence and its Civil War and how they touched Bermuda.

Another fascinating artefact is one of the last Breeches bible printed in 1644, in Holland.  The bible also known as a Geneva bible because it was originally published in Switzerland first in 1560 by Englishman Sir Rowland Hill. The Geneva bible was one of the earliest English versions of the old and new testament. which was eventually replaced by the King James Bible in 1611.

The Breeches bible was the primary Bible of 16th-century English Protestants and was used by William Shakespeare, Oliver Cromwell, and others. It was one of the Bibles taken to America on the Mayflower.  The Geneva Bible was commonly known as the Breeches Bible because it describes Adam and Eve as having made “breeches” to cover their nakedness. 

Unfinished Cathedral

An iconic building in St Georges is the Unfinished Gothic Cathedral which is located at the top of Duke of Kent Street – a short distance from the centre of St George’s. A ruin is all that is left of this church because it was never completed.  Construction began in 1874 and was meant to replace St Peter’s church.  

The design of the cathedral was the work of architect William Hay of the Scottish firm Hay & Henderson. The church was never finished due to various complications. Firstly a split in the congregation led to the Reformed Episcopal Church, building its own place of worship nearby which led to a lack of funds.  Then a fire in 1884 destroyed the main church in Hamilton, which was undergoing its own construction to become the cathedral, now that Hamilton was the capitol.    This diversion of funds slowed down construction on the St. George’s church but it did eventually get a roof in 1897, though it was still incomplete.  After that no more work was carried out and in 1926 the roof was ripped off by a hurricane, solidifying its status as a picturesque ruin. 

Stunning Beaches

To say Bermuda has stunning beaches doesn’t do justice to the natural beauty of this island.

Of course the most famous of these is Horseshoe Bay, which is more than just one bay and is the most well known but then it is so easy to find other beaches such as John Smiths Bay, Elbow Beach, and lesser known beaches such as the one in Tom Moore’s Jungle.

Tom Moore’s Jungle

Walshingham Nature Reserve, known locally as Tom Moore’s Jungle after the Irish poet who favoured the area for writing and you can see why as the area is beautiful – the densely wooded trail provides some much needed shade making it ideal for walking and as you explore the jungle you come across beautiful rock formations and pools with mangroves growing out of the brackish water.

Amongst the attractions is Blue Hole Park, home to the deep, crystal-clear mangrove pond for which it is named. Another attraction worth looking out for is Causeway Cave, a deep-water grotto fed by the tides of Castle Harbour and a favourite spot for swimming, snorkelling and rock climbing.

I had visited Tom Moore’s Jungle when I lived in Bermuda but I hadn’t come across the secluded beach with a bay which was ideal for swimming and so picturesque complete with mangroves on the beach that help to protect the beach from erosion and storm surges. 

After exploring Hamilton we decided to have lunch at a Japanese Sushi bar called Misaki, which is located at 5 Burnaby Street. Besides sushi this small restaurant has plenty of other dishes if you looking for something other than Sushi or more filling. 

I had the Kakuni Bowl (Braised Pork Belly, Sesame Honey Chili Garlic Glazed, Rice, Edamame Mango Red Onion Salsa, Green Beans & Crispy Potato Tangle $24).  I was very impressed with the flavours and freshness of the ingredients.

Current Electric Car Rentals

During our 8 day stay on the island we used the local buses (which are good) taxis and also rented an 2 person electric car  from Current. We hired the Xev Yoyo for $175 a day. We picked it up at the Loren hotel and dropped it back there.  Americans who are used driving large vehicles back home might feel a little cramped by their interior, so do your research before you book.   These two person electric cars are a useful option for getting around the island but you do need keep an eye on your battery level.  There are charging points around the island which are free, though I do wish there were a few more locations.

Dockyard

Everyone refers to it as the dockyard, but its full title is The Royal Naval Dockyard. The British Royal Navy purchased 200 acres on the west end of the island and work began in 1809.   It was a huge project that involved large land reclamations and the labour of thousands of convicts from Britain who were housed in appalling conditions aboard rotting hulks of former naval fighting ships. 

The Dockyard became a major factor in Bermuda’s economy, employing on average more than 1,000 Bermudians at one time in the 19th Century, accounting for more than 15 percent of Bermuda’s income. As a centre of marine technology and inventiveness, the Dockyard afforded generations of Bermudians first-rate training in plumbing, carpentry, and other trades.

It was from Dockyard in the summer of 1814 that a British force of 5,000 troops and Royal Marines set sail for the famous attack on Washington, D. C. and Baltimore during the War of 1812. It was from one of the British ships that a prisoner, Baltimore lawyer Francis Scott Key, penned the words to Star-Spangled Banner, after seeing the American flag still flying above Fort McHenry after a heavy bombardment.

These days the dockyard has be become the most visited attraction on the island with its collection restaurants,  craft shops and museums. The National Museum provides a fascinating journey through Bermuda’s often-turbulent history, from shipwrecks and whaling, to the first flying boats and modern tourism. It is also the port that is deep enough to take the modern day cruise ships that visit the island.

Swizzle Inn

The Swizzle Inn is located just down the road from Grotto Bay Beach Hotel and is still a firm favourite with both locals and tourists, many a night a much younger Kevin would be down there with co workers partying after work; I seem to remember a few drinking contests I got talked into! The place is still friendly, service was fast and atmosphere is vibrant.  A great location to hang out with your friends. In the summer to can also watch the live entertainment or join in the quiz nights.  

Whilst there you must try the Rum Swizzle, which was invented at this pub in the early 1900’s  and is made from Gosling’s Black Seal and Amber rums with orange, pineapple and lemon juices, fruit liqueurs, falernum and other ingredients to make a this wonderful fruity yet strong libation.  Just make sure your get the bus home or a short walk if you are staying near by. Don’t forget to check out their gift shop if you’d like a souvenir baseball cap or t-shirt before you leave the island.

After 8 wonderful days in Bermuda we left promising ourselves we would return because there is so much more to see on this gem of an island.  The toughest part of writing this travelogue was deciding which photographs to include from the hundreds we took.