Return to Washington DC

Capitol Building

Capitol Building

Between 1983-1994 I worked in and around Washington DC.  I never dreamed when I decided to return to England that 28 years would pass before I returned, but time has a tendency of slipping away. Before my trip in late May / early June, I had written down a list of places I’d like to see again, but more important than that was spending time with friends. My wife was looking forward to seeing some of the famous places she had seen so many times on American TV shows and movies, but she too was keen to meet my American friends

Must-sees in DC

First on the agenda was a short guided tour of the Capitol building, the heart of the American government, the scene of so many famous occasions and such a cornerstone of American history and current events. The tour is free but you don’t feel rushed and you have plenty of opportunity to ask questions. I would definitely recommend it!  Another stunning looking building just across the road from the Capitol on the west side is the Supreme Court, finished in 1935.  Carved in white marble it is a real statement of its importance in American society.

If you visit the Lincoln memorial make sure to take time to take the elevator and see the exhibition about the design and building of the memorial.  The statue itself was carved from 28 blocks of Georgian marble by the Piccirilli brothers who did such an amazing job that it is almost impossible to see the seams in the marble.

Frieze of American History in the Rotunda
Capitol Ceiling
American Supreme Court
Court of Neptune fountain
Lincoln Memorial

Next up is the Smithsonian, an amazing collection of museums, 21 in fact, plus the Zoo. Unlike many other museums around the world it is free admission, which is how it should be if you want your people from the whole of your society to learn and appreciate their history and origins. For some of the museums you need to book online in advance.

From the Air and Space (which everyone loves), which has two locations, the original in Washington DC (which is still amazing) and the newer location in Chantilly, Virginia. The newer location has the space (pun intended) to house huge items such as the Space Shuttle Discovery making it well worth a visit. If like me you’re an avid fan of man’s endeavour to travel into space and explore, you should go to both.

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Wright Flyer also known as the Kitty Hawk
Apollo 11 Command Module
Star Wars X-wing fighter

Another must see is the Natural History museum, showing the beginnings of life on our planet. Also, equally fascinating, is the newer perhaps lesser known National Museum of the American Indian. In this museum the facts are laid bare about the atrocities committed against the indigenous peoples of North America.  There were of course some brave Americans who pioneered to protect the native Indians, but also stunning revelations including the part Thomas Jefferson played in the removal of Native Americans from their lands. I think all Americans should visit this museum.

African Elephant Natural History Museum Wash DC
Diana the Huntress American Art Museum Wash DC
Blue Dream Paddles

All of component parts of the Smithsonian add layers and context to what America is all about. The fact that these museums are free to visit is a shining example of how museums should operate.

Places I worked in Washington DC

The two main places I worked in DC were luxury hotels – The Jefferson and the Hay Adams. I was fortunate enough to cook for American Presidents, including Reagan at the Hay Adams and George H. W. Bush whilst helping out a fellow chef at the Vista hotel.  I also cooked for former President Nixon on his 80th birthday whilst at the Jefferson.  Whenever I’d cook for a president it was always hard to get hold of memorabilia to prove I was actually there, it was always snapped up by the waiters and other front of house people.  I complained about this fact to two secret services agents whilst I cooked them some food, so they got me a signed photo from Ronald Reagan.  In the lead-up to a Presidential visit, hotels go to great lengths to refurbish any parts the President may see and of course the secret service do a thorough background check on all staff working at the hotel.  All that does not guarantee cooking for a President, as last minute security or scheduling concerns may cause the dinner to be changed into a cocktail and handshakes at the last minute.

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The Jefferson Hotel on 16th Street does not have a swimming pool, or a gym like other modern luxury hotels might so it has to rely on three things to keep its well deserved reputation: the food has to be a very high standard, the hotel rooms have to be exceptionally well appointed and the staff are some of the best trained and most discreet in the capital.  When I worked there it was often the first choice of celebrities who wished privacy whilst visiting Washington DC.

SB_HOD-Hay-Adams_CreditTheHay-Adams5

The Hay Adams is also on 16th street this and this hotel is next to Lafayette Square which overlooks the White House.  Just like the Jefferson, the Hay Adams continues to get top marks for it food and luxury accommodation. The hotel built in 1928 on the site of two adjacent houses, one belonging to one-time Secretary of State John Hay, 1838-1905, the other to American historian Henry Adams, 1838-1918.  Its nine floors have 143 rooms: its year-round rooftop has the most amazing views in all of the nation’s capital, right across Lafayette Park to The White House.

Visiting Old Friends

It was very important to spend time with Jeff and Lois, my friends who live in Maryland. When I left America they had a wonderful and enchanting little girl named Shayna. Sadly, Shayna died of a rare form of bone cancer called Chondrosarcoma in 2019. Since that time Jeff has channelled his energy into creating the Chondrosarcoma Foundation  bringing experts together from around the world to share their knowledge and advance treatments.

The purpose of CS Foundation is to educate the public about Chondrosarcoma, support and be an advocate and information portal for patients and families that are suffering from this disease.  The foundation also strives to promote positive changes including a viable treatment protocol, early detection, proper surveillance, more efficient and relevant information dedicated to Chondrosarcoma, as well as creating networking opportunities for sarcoma experts to specifically address Chondrosarcoma. Most importantly, CS Foundation strives to advocate for more compassionate care, cutting through pharmaceutical red-tape, and promoting the patient’s right to receive treatment – especially if new solutions are potentially life-saving.

Other Places we visited

Like any capitol city, Washington DC has so many sites to see but if you have the time you should also explore the surrounding area.  Sophie and I visited the historical town of Harpers Ferry in West Virginia, the scene of abolitionist John Brown’s attempt to create a slave revolt. John Brown and his men took control of the United States arsenal at Harpers Ferry.

Main Street Harpers Ferry
Main Street Harpers Ferry

Their attempt failed as the local slaves of the area did not join Brown’s revolt against the status quo, but it was a powerful catalyst and rallying cry that lead American into a civil war.

Provosts Jail
John Brown’s Fort
Inside of shoe and hat shop
Rifles from Harpers Ferry
Covered Wagon at Harper Ferry

In 1794 the armoury’s location was chosen by George Washington because of its natural resources of iron ore, timber, limestone and water power because of the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers. The armoury manufactured over 600,000 muskets, rifles and pistols before the outbreak of civil war.

We also ate in some very good restaurants including the Island Hideaway at Solomon Island Maryland, which my good friend Johnny Bee took us to. The restaurant has views of the marina and I can recommend their pork chops. He also took us to another restaurant run by a friend of his called Courtney’s Seafood Restaurant in Ridge, also in Maryland. Sophie had a delicious Apple Pie à la Mode.

Apple Pie à la Mode
Apple Pie à la Mode

We also visited Annapolis which is the capital of Maryland and for a short while was the capital of the United States in 1783–1784, during the war of independence.  At the city docks is the Kunta Kinte-Alex Haley Memorial which represents author Alex Haley’s vision for national racial reconciliation and healing.

Kunta Kinte-Alex Haley Memorial
Typical Clapboard House in Annapolis, Maryland
Leaping duck Annapolis

After exploring this quaint town, we met up with Lois for an excellent lunch at the Iron Rooster. Two of us had the patty melt and Sophie had the waffles and chicken. The food was excellent the patty melt (hamburger) was juicy very tasty and delicious. The hamburger is an 8oz black Aberdeen angus topped with caramelized onions, cheddar cheese, served on Parmesan crusted white pullman bread with fries. The service was efficient, professional and friendly. Recommended!

Finally, we visited Ocean City where I lived and worked for a time. Ocean City is located 150 miles south east of Washington, between the Atlantic Ocean and Isle of Wight Bay and features miles of gorgeous white sand beach. One of the restaurants that I used to work at in Ocean City, The Wild Goose Chase, received a glittering review from the Baltimore Sun when I was Head Chef. The unique building was designed by Dick Vach and in recent years has been converted into apartments.

Wild Goose Chase, Ocean CityMD
Crab Cakes at Longboard Cafe

However, we visited his son’s (Rick Vach) restaurant Longboard Cafe for dinner and Sophie and I both had their delicious crab cakes.

This two week trip into my past was a memorable one for both me and my wife who got to meet all the people I have often spoken about. There was much left undone so perhaps another reason to return to the states soon.

38 thoughts on “Return to Washington DC”

  2. What a great tour! I have been blessed to have visited all thise places (except Harper’s Ferry) and did a weekend with the children when they were little at Ocean City. Unfortunately the hotel where we stayed had a half inch of water in the rugging!

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    1. Thanks for your kind words Noelle, the post sat half finished for a few months, unclear of what to put into the article and what to leave out?

      It was and is quite an important article to me because it was revisiting my past. I was both excited with a little trepidation, worried that the trip would fall short of expectations. But perhaps with some dumb luck and my good American friends the trip in fact could not have gone better.

      Due to my chef commitments I decided to wait until the Christmas break to complete this post., so I could give it my undivided attention.
      Finally, Sophie (my wife) and I sat down and scanned through the many photos which helped shape the final piece.
      Happy New Year to you and your loved ones. 🙂

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      1. Happy New Year to you, too – I’m glad you enjoyed Washington and its environs. There is so much to see and do there. My favorite is the Air and Space Museum – my kids, too!

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  6. What an outstanding visit! That’s more than many US citizens see.
    Hope you and yours have had a wonderful holiday season and I look forward to trying more recipes (come on, Chef, I need help!!).

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    1. Thanks GP, Sophie and I visit my my side of the family in Birmingham and then drive to Bath and visit my wonderful Mom-in-law. Of course being a chef I get roped in to helping out in the kitchen, but thats fine.

      Hope you and your loved ones also had a great festive season.
      Best Wishes
      Kevin 🙂

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  7. Thank you for this wonderful and interesting travel report, Kevin. I live in Germany and have never visited Washington. Maybe one day I’ll be able to travel there.
    Kevin, I wish you all the best for 2024, in good health and with lots of fun cooking and photography. It’s been great following your work and hope to continue to do so in the new year.
    Greetings from the beautiful Rhine-Highlands / Germany…
    Rosie 🤗🌹

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    1. Likewise I’ve often thought about taking a trip to Germany, perhaps a trip down the Rhine as other members of my family have done.

      I also need to go visit the Black forest as I’m a big fan of Black Forest gateau and Black Forest Ham.
      Happy New Year Rosie 🙂

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  8. Kevin, what an enjoyable photo and blog post! I don’t remember but is the Jefferson Hotel restaurant Lemaire? I remember having the most amazing braised short ribs a few years ago. I promised myself that if I ever go to D.C. again I’ll make it a point to eat there. I’m proud that our paths have crossed even in a tangential way as I enjoy and respect the depth and presentation of your culinary knowledge. So I do hope that I am remembering correctly. If not, I will eat there for sure!

    I’ll also make a donation to your friends’ foundation

    Happy New Year! Hope 2024 is treating you well so far and that it brings much joy and prosperity

    – Archer

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    1. Thanks Archer for your kind words about my post. The restaurants at the Jefferson are currently the Greenhouse and the cocktail bar called The Quill. I think you may be remembering the Lemaire restaurant in the Jefferson Hotel down in Richmond Virgina, which is also highly rated.

      Thank you much for donating to the Chondrosarcoma Foundation, I’m sure Jeff appreciates your generosity.

      I’m keeping busy teaching online and writing recipes for other people, which is handy from time to time.
      Best Wishes and Happy New Year 🙂

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      1. oh! my mistake. i admit, I have a bias towards attributing everything exquisite i see with a French label or concept. 😀

        but yes, I did have the very high privilege of being treated to a meal at that particular location. i certainly now have more of a reason to go again because you were a chef there.

        I will check in again for any new recipes you post. Have a great weekend!

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    1. Thanks Brad for your kind and thoughtful comments. Ironically, I lived in and around Wash DC for years but it was only when friends or family came to town that I would take time to see and enjoy the sights myself.

      Best Wishes
      Kevin

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    1. Hi Ray, And thank you for stopping by. I did enjoy my trip back to Wash D.C. but now I’m back in the UK in the county of Worcestershire. I do still have friends in Maryland, South Carolina, and the West Coast so I still feel very connected to America.
      Best Wishes and Congratulations on your book.
      Kevin 🙂

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  13. Coming back for a closer look, wow! thanks for the memories!! Came to DC first as a high school trip to see the Smithonian Institution museums, and later several times on business trips all before blogging and pictures! Thanks again!! Cheers

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